Monday, June 9, 2008

Ensenada, Mexico, the Crown Jewel of Baja California

By Steve Dryden

For those of us free spirits who have learned the skill of artful dodging when it comes to believing the negative propaganda generated by the newspaper monopoly in San Diego, life in Baja California is getting better all the time. Of course there are the realities of the drug trade and drug dealers in Mexico, and the never ending demand of drug consumers in the United States, but in truth Ensenada is well beyond the world of addiction, corruption and violence that can take place within the international border’s drug traffic zone.

If you are looking for a painkiller to relieve your anxiety and stressful lifestyle, you should consider the natural alternative: a visit to the tranquility and serenity of romantic Ensenada, Baja California, Mexico. We don’t have time for drugs here, we’re too busy having fun, enjoying family values, eating gourmet food and drinking local premium wines. And, if that doesn’t work for you we’ve got of plenty of high quality cerveza and tequila, a beautiful boardwalk, our world famous fish market, infinite sunsets, and a community of friendly, courteous, diverse, international residents whom are world renowned for their traditional Baja California hospitality.

Be forewarned though – living the good life in the charming seaport of Ensenada is addicting and can lead to withdrawal upon returning to the fast-paced, superficial and consumption-based cultures in other regions of the world. We might appear to be poor when it comes to glitter and brand name possessions, but we are rich when it comes to family, tradition, community, simplicity, basic slow-paced living, quality time, and healthy, affordable lifestyles.

Drugs, we don’t need no stinking drugs.  In reality we’re quietly living – under the influence of the abundance of nature and the good life – in the Crown Jewel of Baja California.

Let me give you an example of a typical summer weekend in Ensenada, just in case you think I’m exaggerating or high on the magic of life itself.

On Friday night, May 30th, for an entry fee of US$10.00, I attended an opera presented by Pro Musica Ensenada at the Teatro Universitario Benito Juarez. Director Juan Thomas Acosta orchestrated a superb musical production that included world class performances by Alejandrina Vazquez Ramirez (soprano), Enrique Toral (tenor), and Maria Lozano (soprano).

In addition, the Russian pianist Evgeny Korolkov gifted the audience with sensational renditions of classics that included magical interpretations of Alcina (Handel), La Serva Padrona (Pergolesi), Le Nozze di Figaro (Mozart), Eugene Onegin (Tchaikovsky), and several other amazing musical productions. The intensity and quality of Korolkov’s performance was stunning and overwhelming. He is one of the best pianists on the west coast of the Americas. 

After that inspirational and awakening concert, the night was still young and I was restless so I booked a premium room for well under US$100 at the Posada del Sol, on Av. Lopez Mateos and Av. Blancarte. This charming and elegant hotel, with swimming pool, spa, and private hot tub in each room, is located in my favorite neighborhood of downtown Ensenada. In fact, I consider it to be the entrance along the delightful tour towards the heart of romantic Ensenada.

For example, just steps away from my hotel you’ve got the world famous French restaurant El Rey Sol for fine dining and one of the best wine lists in the region. And across the street there are several gourmet coffee shops, ice cream parlors and a natural food cafe with free Wi-Fi internet connections. On the north side of town you’ll find the original Hussong’s Cantina, Mango Mango, Papas and Beer, and Capricho’s Wine Bar and Gourmet Cuisine.

This quiet part of downtown is just a short walk from the harbor-side boardwalk and cruise ship terminal. As you walk north along Av. Lopez Mateos towards the famous Hussong’s Bar, you’ll encounter leather and jewelry shops, bars and mariachi bands, taco shops and international gourmet food establishments. Outdoor and recreational activities can include golf, fishing, hiking, swimming, windsurfing, surfing, sailing, diving, horseback riding, off-road exploration and mountain biking.

A short and scenic thirty minute drive on the Tecate-Ensenada Highway 3 will take you into Mexico’s premium wine country, with more than 25 wineries, restaurants, museums, produce stands and several excellent lodging options.

Back in Ensenada, on Saturday morning I rolled out of bed and ran down to watch the start of the 40th annual Tecate SCORE Baja 500 Off-Road Race. At 6 a.m. motorcycles and ATM’s, followed by trucks and cars, began the grueling challenge across the desert of Baja California and then returning to Ensenada by nightfall. This car race attracted over 300 entries from the US, Mexico, Canada, Germany, Italy, Spain, and France.

My own experience with Baja California off-road racing and exploration began in 1955, when my father and his Indianapolis 500 race car mechanic buddy, Al King, built, raced, and created havoc in their custom 1932 and 1948 Ford dune buggies on the so-called roads from Ensenada to La Paz. At the age of 15, I raced a modified Harley Davidson from Ensenada to San Felipe which ended my future aspirations to race across the desert on anything with less than four wheels. So, understanding the difficulties and physical challenges of racing, I still enjoy watching this race every year from the sidelines and appreciate all the modern technology that has improved the safety, comfort and durability of off-road racing machines. Ensenada has become the off-road racing center for this region and hosts several racing events throughout the year.

We’re also home to one of the most popular bicycle races on the West Coast.

Later in the day, on that same Saturday, I drove for thirty minutes from Ensenada out to the Valle de Guadalupe to attend a world class concert at the L.A. Cetto winery. Cuban-born singer/composer Francisco Cespedes delivered an incredible performance with the setting sun and a stunning wine country view as a backdrop. Don Luis Cetto, his beautiful daughter Adriana, and dedicated staff members hosted another magnificent concert production that featured their premium wines and a variety of culinary delights. This Italian family presents about ten extraordinary concerts, art shows and wine-related events each year in the Guadalupe Valley, Ensenada and Tijuana.

In addition, most valley and Ensenada wineries team up every August for Fiestas de la Vendimia, their grape and wine harvest festivals. Each winery presents different wine-related events that include sunset jazz concerts in the vineyards, country picnics with classical music, paella cooking contests, plays, wine and mischief, family and children’s events, tango dancing in the winery, and much more.

I spent the night in Valle de Guadalupe, and in the morning I drove back to Ensenada to the Catholic church to attend confession. “Forgive me Father for I have sinned, two concerts, four bottles of wine, one car race, gourmet French food, Italian cuisine, and romantic Cuban music.”  To which Father Juan replied, “Did you attend the concert at L.A. Cetto winery?” Yes, I did! “Well then pray five Hail Marys, ten Our Fathers, donate a bottle of Cetto’s 2003 Private Reserve Nebbiolo to the church, and don’t forget about the Mushroom Festival today at 1 p.m. in front of El Rey Sol restaurant.”

What, another party to attend? Aren’t I getting a little too old for this kind of behavior? Yes, the annual Mushroom Festival on Sunday, June 1st – I almost forgot!

Carlos Garcia Travesi, President of CANIRAC, Ensenada’s Chamber of Restaurants, and other dedicated culinary experts hosted this year’s Mushroom Festival, or Festival del Hongo.  Several of the best culinary institutions, regional restaurants, wineries and gourmet food outlets served up samples of their works of art and competed in a friendly yet serious gastronomical contest. For US$15.00 I purchased a book of tickets that allowed me to sample too many gourmet entrees, premium wines, custom made tequilas and an elegant (iced) mocha coffee from Cafe Negrita.

The weather was classic Ensenada-Mediterranean, with a gentle breeze and pleasant 70 degree temperatures. The crowd was a mix of young college students, families with children, and reflected the international diversity of our community with Mexicans, Americans, Russian, Italians, French, Japanese, Chinese, German, Spanish, Swiss, and almost every other nationality in attendance.

Finally I was getting fat and tired, and the weekend was coming to an end.

As I was walking to my car my cell phone rang. It was my crazy Russian friend and Cuban ambassador, Sergio, “Are you coming to the party this evening at Bibayoff Winery in Valle de Guadalupe?” Well, since I live in the valley it was on the way home, right? You just can’t miss a party hosted by David Bibayoff and his family, and besides he has just released a delicious Columbard and Chenin Blanc blend!

As I drove towards my home in the wine country of Guadalupe Valley, and the party at Bibayoff Winery, it dawned on me that summer is just beginning and there are over 100 more events taking place in the near future! It’s going to be a long summer, so I’d better get a few cases of wine for Father Juan as I’ll have plenty more sins of passion and earthly delights to confess by October!

Ensenada has become the Crown Jewel along the golden corridor of northern Baja California, and “the gourmet food and wine capital of Mexico.” This seaport city offers safety and security for families and has become the destination for travelers, adventurers and retirees who want a strong community based on family values, culture, tradition, and higher education. Furthermore, the city has a new center of arts and cultural, the largest population of Ph.D. educated people in Mexico, and community leadership that is dedicated to providing public service, culture, safety, security, and economic opportunity for all of its citizens.

From my perspective Ensenada is in fact the Crown Jewel of Baja California because it offers all people an opportunity to enjoy life via higher education, culture, the arts, and community participation. In addition, local businesses cater to those who love good things by creating an amazing array of gourmet entrees from fresh seafood dishes to traditional Mexican cuisine and beyond. And, we have lots of music that ranges from mariachi street bands to classic orchestras and opera.

Ensenada is by far the safest and most secure large city on the west coast of Baja California. Come see us, spend the night, a weekend, or become a permanent community member. You’re always welcome here in beautiful Ensenada, Baja California! Take time to discover the many wonders of this region for yourselves.

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Steve Dryden, a MexiData.info guest columnist, writes about wine, food, travel, Native Peoples, and history.  He lives in the Guadalupe Valley of Baja California, Mexico, where he guides private wine tours for individuals and small groups.