Monday, May 12, 2008

The Latest on Food and Wine in Baja California, Mexico

By Steve Dryden

 

·      Ensenada is fast becoming the food and wine capital of the country

Mexican wines from Baja California continue the climb towards world class status with each new vintage. Every year in April the wine industry presents a seafood and new wine release festival in Ensenada. This year’s food and wine extravaganza took place at the cruise ship terminal, on the scenic plaza overlooking the harbor with a backdrop of the mountains of La Bufadora and Punta Banda.

Several of the best culinary establishments between Rosarito Beach and Ensenada provided guests with gourmet delights and an opportunity to match up new wines with superb entrees. Within minutes of the opening presentation it was obvious that Baja California is reaching superior levels in winemaking and culinary arts. Mexico has something to be very proud of with food and wine from this region, and Ensenada is fast becoming the food and wine capital of the country.

 

Pau Pijoan of Viñas Pijoan was a shining star of the event with his new release of 2006 Domenico. It was the most stunning wine I tasted that day with rich, elegant and deep layers of flavor, perfectly balanced with a long and graceful finish. This blend of seventy-five percent Grenache, fifteen percent Petite Sirah and ten percent Cabernet Sauvignon is artistically crafted from selected “old vines” grown in sandy soil of Valle de San Vicente. Pau continues to create superior wines under the guidance of Hugo D’ Acosta.

 

Don Miller, from Adobe Guadalupe Inn and Vineyards, is another partner of Hugo D’ Acosta. Together they team up to make high quality wine from Don and Tru Miller’s vineyards. Their Uriel 2007 Vino Rosado is a crowd-pleasing wine with a unique blend of Tempranillo, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Barbera and Muscatel.

 

Hugo presented two of his own outstanding white wines, one from Casa de Piedra and one from Paralelo winery. He continues to create amazing Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc from his estate grown grapes and from other regions in Baja California. In addition, his red wines are considered to be some of Mexico’s best.

 

Fernando Martain of Cavas Valmar winery in Ensenada presented his new 2007 Chenin Blanc and 2006 Tempranillo. Both of these wines make the point that Fernando is creating consistent vintages of high quality wine. As well, he is the man behind many other artisan and boutique wineries. He was selected by the Baja Times as the Wine Industry Person of the Year for 2008 because of his leadership and vision that has led to a transformation of Baja California’s winemaking industry.

 

The wine presented by Viñedos La Farga was so good and exciting that I spilled it all over my new white shirt and pants. A wine that good, you just have to wear it!  La Farga is producing some outstanding red wines from Valle de Guadalupe and is quietly moving towards the top of the pack with more outstanding wines every year.

 

Villa Montefiori poured a delightful Nebbiolo that is rich, smooth, elegant and opulent. Tres Valles Vitivinicola is always full of surprises with outstanding red wines of Old World style that match well with gourmet delights from Baja California. And, Vinicola Pedrazo is an artisan winery based in Ensenada that is producing some good, high quality wines that are being sought out by wine lovers throughout Mexico and southern California.

 

Jose Durand of Sinergi-vt is another rising star within Mexico’s wine culture. He’s got full control over his creative talent, and he is making some superior wine from his small winery facility in Ensenada. His 2007 Marella, that is 100% Sauvignon Blanc (made in stainless steel tanks – with no oak barrel aging), is a light, delicious and elegant white wine with a nice finish. This Sauvignon Blanc is one of the new wines from Baja California that is showing some serious promise, very similar in style and quality to world class whites from New Zealand. In addition, his Coco Rose 2007 is an amazing and delightful blend of Granache and Muscato di Caneli.

 

Viñas Liceaga and their beauty queens poured the new Chenin Blanc and Merlot, both excellent wines of superior quality.

 

And I can’t forget to mention the wines of L.A. Cetto. If you haven’t tried their new 2007 Viognier you are missing out on a great white wine. In fact, it just won a gold medal in Spain, a competition that is considered one of the top wine events in the world. As well, their 2003 Nebbiolo, 2004 Sangiovese, and 2004 Terra all won Silver medals in one of France’s highest wine award events, judged by some of the world’s leading wine experts.

 

So, if you’ve ever really wondered if Mexico can produce world class wines here’s the proof, judged on the international circuit by independent wine experts.

 

All in all, Baja California is creating high quality wine with many achieving world class status and winning international awards in serious competitions. Most amazing is that Baja California wines are made in the Old World style, matching well with the abundant gourmet cuisine found throughout the region.

 

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Steve Dryden, a MexiData.info guest columnist, writes about wine, food, travel, Native Peoples and history.  He lives in the Guadalupe Valley of Baja California, Mexico, where he guides individual and small group wine tours. He can be reached in Mexico at [52] 646-118-9801.