Monday, May 12, 2008

 

Better Roads Offer Easy Access to Mexico’s Wine Country

 

“Vino-Tourism” by Steve Dryden

 

·      Baja California’s Ruta del Vino – Mexico’s Premier Wine Route

 

“A Field of Dreams” is what I call vineyards in northwestern Mexico’s Baja California wine country. I think every person who plants grapes has dreams of creating something personal, special and significant.

 

As a grape grower I maintain an intimate relationship with grapevines, my own private Italian family of Nebbiolo grapes. I’m blessed with spoiled Italian bambinos who demand organic food, water twice a week, and they won’t perform well unless I play Johannes Brahms and Frederic Chopin for them during the cool evenings, just before sunset! And every vineyard manager, winemaker and winery owner has a vision to produce the best possible product, expressing the land, the grapes, the passion and the likes of each individual.

 

Vineyards and wineries continue to sprout up in the Valle de Guadalupe, and the “Wine Route,” the “Ruta del Vino,” is the link that now joins them together. Gone are the days when wine tasting in the valley was a combination of the TV series Survivor, off-road racing and demolition derby.

 

The Ruta del Vino has been expanded, and the old dirt road from Francisco Zarco towards Monte Xanic and beyond to Bibayoff and Viñas Pijoan has been paved. In the next month or two (Mexican time) the road will be paved all the way from the little village of Francisco Zarco to the free road near El Tigre. This is a revelation and a revolution in the sense that you’ll no longer need “double strength” Polident to keep your dentures locked-in as you fight the washboard roads where some unlucky folks often encountered potholes that could easily consume an entire car. And now, (for better or worse) you’ll see motor coaches at back country wineries that once were accessible only to Baja off-road vehicles, ATV’s, ATC’s, naive gringos or local adventurers.  As well, the new road traverses once hidden olive groves, tree farms, “old vine” vineyards, ranchos and “secret artisan” wineries.

 

Today there are about ten to twelve wineries that can be easily accessed via the new Zarco-El Tigre wine route. In order of location from Francisco Zarco, they are Vinicola Sueños; Fuentes Brothers; Monte Xanic; Chateau Camou; Adobe Guadalupe; Baron Balch’e; JC Bravo; The Wine School; La Villa; Bibayoff; and Viñas Pijoan.

 

And there are a few more “hidden treasures” along the route waiting for your discovery, but I’m leaving that adventure to those who still want a place to hide, relax and avoid the crowds. For lovers of the wonderful wine of Monte Xanic, you might note that they are now open on Saturday and Sunday from 10 am to 3 pm They do not take motor coach tours, no groups larger than twenty people and with prior approval only.

 

Families looking for quality wine with super value pricing, and a place for kids to play while mom and dad taste wine, should explore Vinos Fuentes winery near Km 1.25 on the new Zarco-Tigre wine route. One of the newer members in our regional “wine boom” is the family of Hector and Miguel Fuentes, along with brothers Mark and Hector Fuentes Jr. These native Baja Californians have a long history of farming in Mexicali and Valle de Guadalupe. Over the last several years they have been converting their former fruit orchard into a family oriented winery, recreation area, boutique gift shop, traditional Mexican restaurant and steak house.  

 

According to Miguel Fuentes, “hospitality is the key here and we plan to built a family-oriented project where there is something to offer the entire family, from young children to grandparents. We are a family that respects and appreciates the needs of everyone in a family and we plan to share that perspective with our guests. The children can play in the recreation area with supervision, while the parents enjoy wines in our tasting room. We’ll offer food in our family-style restaurant, snacks on the patio, barbecues, and even host special events to include birthday parties and weddings. We’re creating a venue where we can offer something for everyone in an environment based on fun, education and family entertainment.”

 

Vinos Fuentes has seventy hectares of natural and sustainable land on both sides of the Guadalupe riverbed. Twelve hectares are planted with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo, while several additional plots are planted in table grapes that include Ruby Red, Globe, Superior and Thompson seedless grapes. The vines range in age from two years to twenty-five years. In 2008, Miguel will plant Nebbiolo, Syrah, French Colombard and Muscat vines to compliment his wine portfolio. The winery facility, boutique gift shop and restaurant are located in an 8,250 square foot building on a beautiful and natural farm setting.

 

Miguel currently creates small quantities of high quality wine that include 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon; 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon/Grenache blend; 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon; and 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon/Grenache blend. Coming soon will be his 2007 Merlot and 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. Vinos Fuentes wines are a Baja California “super value” at US$10 to US$15 per bottle, with additional case discounts.  Hours of operation will start with Thursday through Sunday from 10 am until dusk. Tasting fees are US$3 person – refundable towards wine purchase. The winery is located on the paved road (Calle Principal No. 290) that passes through the small village of Francisco Zarco, almost directly across from the entrance to Monte Xanic winery. For more details contact: [52] 646-155-2044; [52] 646-171-7070 cell; 152*135047*2 Nextel; or vinosfuentes@hotmail.com

 

Another hidden gold nugget in southwestern Valle de Guadalupe is Viñas Pijoan, and the new road will open an exciting world for wine lovers and for the Pijoan family. I’ve interviewed several winemakers in Baja California’s premier wine country, and if I were a professor in viticulture and enology I would give Pau Pijoan an “A” for doing his homework. He studies wine the way Einstein studied physics – meticulously, passionately, and relentlessly – and that’s what separates him from the pack.

 

After a few minutes into conversation with Pau, you realize he’s intensely focused on creating “honest wines of integrity.” He’s so committed and determined that he loses ten to fifteen pounds every season during harvest just trying to manage his selected vineyards and detailing his winemaking procedures. This kind of passion and love for the wine culture is what drives his heart and soul, so it’s no surprise that Pau’s wines are so incredible! He’s another important player on the Mexican “wine team” that’s driving the quality of Baja California wines into world class wines of distinction and sophistication. Serious wine aficionados should note this gentleman and seek out his wine! 

 

Pau Pijoan began his interest with winemaking in England during his post graduate years. His little apartment in London looked more like a winery than living quarters, but it was the beginning of a long relationship in wine craftsmanship and scientific research that eventually led him to the Guadalupe Valley in Baja California. He sees this wine region as one of the most important wine growing areas in the world, providing the right climate, soils and conditions to get mature grapes of great structure and concentration.

 

Today Pau Pijoan has a small winery located in a beautiful, remote location in the valley where he produces distinct wines reflecting his commitment and determination under the guidance and direction of Hugo D’Acosta.

 

In 1999 Pau enrolled in a winemaking program directed by enologist Hugo D’ Acosta, thus taking another step towards fulfilling his passion for creating serious wines. Hugo and Pau have since established a friendship and working relationship that allows Hugo to mentor and consult Pau in his desire and passion to develop superior Mexican wines. Hugo D’ Acosta is a former winemaker for Santo Tomas winery, and he is one of the revolutionary Mexican leaders in the movement to create artisan winemakers and boutique wineries capable of creating world class wines.

Viñas Pijoan winery is home to Pau’s dreams and passion, allowing for the creation of about 1,000 cases of handcrafted wines per vintage. His winemaking philosophy centers on making supreme wines with concentrations of ripe fruit and less oak. This strategy reflects his thought that many wines are overpowered by oak hindering the true expression of the fruit. His style of winemaking allows him to release young wines that are drinkable and delicious at an early age, providing his local followers with quality wines and giving him a faster return on his investment. These wines have a “cult” following in Mexico City and each vintage is often sold out soon after release! His marketing strategy is to “let the wines sell themselves.”  And they are doing just that! Most of his wines sell out each year with many cases being shipped to Mexico City

Pau Pijoan’s future vision calls for a larger winemaking facility with the addition of more estate vineyards, which will enable him to create about 2,500 cases per year. In addition to expanding his Mexican wine market, he also looks towards the US as a future market. He notes that San Diego County consumes more wine than the entire country of Mexico, and that in the next year or two the US will be the largest wine consumer in the world. If Pau Pijoan continues with his passion and determination in creating honest wines of integrity, I’m sure his wines will be embraced by wine enthusiasts from around the globe.

 

It’s now easy to access Viñas Pijoan by following the new road from Francisco Zarco for about ten miles, three miles past Bibayoff Winery, and look for the sign on your left. Open with prior reservations on Sat/Sun. Phone: [52] 646-178-3482 or cell [52] 646-171-7179.

 

The new addition to the Ruta del Vino opens a new and more civilized wine world. And, just when I thought life couldn’t get any better in Mexico’s wine culture, I discovered that Done Lupe’s cute and creative daughter, Shirley Yi, is now making and selling fresh pizza. Every Saturday and Sunday Shirley fires up her pizza oven and provides several awesome pizza options to include: Pizza Pepperoni Clasica, Pizza Mexicana, Pizza Vegetariana, Pizza Hawaiiana, Pizza Española, and several types of gourmet Italiano Calzone.

 

Of course all this takes place while I’m on a nutritional program, but at least she uses organic crust with flax seed and other natural wonders. I guess if I die eating her pizza at least it will be from an “organic” heart attack.

 

——————————

Steve Dryden, a MexiData.info guest columnist, writes about wine, food, travel, Native Peoples and history.  He lives in the Guadalupe Valley of Baja California, Mexico, where he guides individual and small group wine tours. He can be reached in Mexico at [52] 646-118-9801.